Lillo Tatini

Ristorante/Caffe, Piazza Umberto 1. 18, Panicale, PG

• Tel: 075 837771
• Closed: Monday
• Price range: Relatively expensive

Panicale is a beautiful, small medieval hill town, high on a ridge about 10Km south of Castiglione del Lago. Within its walls, overlooking the main piazza and its lovely well, is a tiny restaurant called Lillo Tatini.

There are only three or four tables on its minute terrace and around eight more inside, so it is important to book in advance, as it fills up quickly. The menu is very poetic in describing the dishes designed by Patrizia, the owner (a very glamorous lady, with more than a passing resemblance to Juliette Binoche about her).

It is based on all the traditional Umbrian ingredients (game, lake fish, truffles, pulses and herbs) but with a distinct modern twist. It is particularly good for its delicious pasta, the pigeon with Umbrian lentils, lamb with truffles, rabbit and some mouth-watering desserts, especially the special fruit ice creams.

Patrizia also designs seasonal menus every few months, which have four courses and are highly recommended. She will also choose a different wine to go with each course if you like. Her wine list is not cheap by Italian standards, but offers an excellent choice.

The atmosphere is wonderful and the only complaint we have is about the painted light bulbs which can make the place a bit gloomy in the winter. However, on a summers evening, sitting outside, watching the swallows do their aerobatics around the piazza or listening to the local children chase one another (and the town dog) around the fountain, it’s a great experience.

Vivien Griffiths OBE 30th Sep 2005

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